Santander to Bragança Route & Wine Tourism Guide
- Alex Johnson
- Dec 23, 2024
- 33 min read
If you're planning to ride your motorcycle from Santander to Portugal and want to enjoy some wine tourism along the way, then this guide is for you. It features both 3-day and 4-day routes, with options to extend your adventure as you wish.
Note: This article was originally written in March 2024 as my pre-trip guide, but I’ve now updated it with where I actually went and insights after completing my trip.
This is part one of a multi-part guide based on a six-week trip I took between May and July 2024. After arriving in Santander by ferry, I traveled across Spain, Portugal, Andorra, and France, exploring many of the top wine regions in Spain and Portugal. I also rode parts of the Trans Euro Trail, the first two days of the Adventure Country Tracks (ACT) Portugal route, and participated in Austin Vince's "The VINCE" trail bike orienteering event near the Pyrenees.
In this article, I’ll guide you through riding from Santander, across the stunning Picos de Europa, and into the wine regions of northwest Spain. Then, we’ll head into Portugal, ending in Bragança, where the Adventure Country Tracks (ACT) Portugal route begins. This guide includes Google Maps routes, wine region highlights, and recommendations for places to stay.
If you're starting your trip in Santander and have about a week for riding, this route will fit perfectly within that timeframe. The following articles will guide you through Portugal and back to Bilbao, creating the foundation for a two-week trip if you have more time. Spring is an ideal season to go, with wildflowers in full bloom, but I’d avoid summer due to the heat. Autumn would also be great, coinciding with the vineyard harvest season.
Miradoiro de Cabezoás, Ribiera Sacra - Photo Credit: turismo.ribeirasacra.org
CONTENTS
Wine Tourism
Trip Overview
I ended up making quite a few last-minute changes to my plans. Originally, I had planned to ride the new Royal Enfield Himalayan 450 I had on order, but after multiple delays, I was forced to cancel it. Instead, I took my Honda CRF300L trail bike. On top of that, I was in the process of buying my first home, which unexpectedly completed a month early, so I pushed back my departure.
My original plan was to ride the 5-day Adventure Country Tracks (ACT) route along the length of Portugal, attend the Jerez MotoGP, and then head to The VINCE event. However, my delayed departure meant I missed the MotoGP, and I would only have time to complete the first two days of the ACT route.
So, I finally set off in mid-May 2024 on the Portsmouth to Santander ferry with my CRF. This was my first time trail riding overseas, and I was going solo. My trail riding confidence was at rock bottom after a few disastrous ventures out on the Surrey trails the year before. I was considering giving up trail riding, and I had, at various points, put my CRF up for sale. I decided, however, to give it another go. This trip was my final attempt to see if trail riding was for me or if I actually just hated muddy English greenlanes. If I was going to quit, I wanted to tick off a bucket list item first: participating in Austin Vince's The VINCE, a trail bike orienteering event in the Pyrenees.
This trip also served as an experiment in leaving my bike in another country and flying back home for a while before continuing my journey. The ferry to Spain is expensive (up to £450 each way with a cabin) and takes two days each way, so it made sense to leave my bike in Spain. I also planned for my wife to fly out and meet me for a few days so we could explore one location in more depth, giving me some time off the bike too.
My goal was to find a balance between riding great roads and trails, visiting some of the must-see sights of Spain and Portugal, and stopping by a few wine regions. I like to keep my travel plans flexible, so I mostly booked accommodation on the day I arrived and let my route be influenced by where interesting places to stay were available.
Since I was riding solo with limited trail skills, mechanical know-how, and confidence, I chose relatively easy but scenic trails. The Adventure Country Tracks (ACT) Portugal Route is a 1,250 km, five-day on/off-road motorcycle route running the length of Portugal, from Bragança in the north to the southern coast at Cacela Velha. Since the ACT is designed for large adventure bikes, I was confident I could tackle it solo on my smaller trail bike. My friend Noel (of TAMP Podcast fame) recommended some amazing trails in the Picos de Europa and the Pyrenees that were long, scenic, and not too challenging.
Don't worry if you're not interested in trail riding—I'll also provide road-only alternatives. If you’re looking for more trails, the Trans Euro Trail (TET) runs close to my route as well.
In this article, I outline the 3-day route I completed and then describe the extended 4-day version I intended to take but couldn't due to time constraints. Both routes begin in Santander and head through the Picos de Europa, then south to Ponferrada in the Bierzo wine region in northwestern Spain. After visiting the Roman gold mines of Las Médulas and the Valdeorras wine region, the shorter route takes you directly south to Bragança while the extended route continues west passing through two more Spanish wine regions in Galicia, including the steep terraced riverside vineyards of Ribeira Sacra. From there, the extended route continues south through the vast Peneda-Gerês National Park into Portugal, then east to the Roman spa town of Chaves and the fortified medieval town of Bragança.
Weather is an important consideration on this trip, so flexibility is key. Up until the ferry docked in Santander, I kept a close eye on the weather and adjusted my plans accordingly. If you go too early or late in the season, areas like the Picos de Europa or Serra da Estrela could have snow. There's also a risk of rain and limited visibility, which I experienced on day one in the Picos. Even in mid-May, I found it quite cool until I reached the Douro Valley, and I had heavy rain and hail in Portugal.
Useful Resources / Inspiration
Here is a list of some of the resources I used for planning this part of the trip:
Great Motorcycle Tours of Europe Book by Colette Coleman
This book offers fantastic biking routes in North East Spain (starting in Bilbao), Portugal (from Vigo to Bragança, Douro, and Lisbon), and Andalusia. Available on Kindle. Buy on Amazon
Road Trips Spain Book by Eyewitness
A great guidebook covering much of Spain, including the Picos de Europa and the route from Ponferrada to Ourense (featured in this trip). If you have the space, bring the physical book with you. I traveled light and took photos of the relevant pages. Though I also bought the Kindle version, it's not as user-friendly as the paperback. Unfortunately, there's no Road Trips Portugal book, but the Eyewitness Portugal guide is also helpful. Buy on Amazon
Wine Trails of Europe Book by Lonely Planet
This book covers many of the wine regions I plan to visit, including Bierzo and the Douro. Each region’s guide includes recommendations for wineries, accommodations, dining, and activities. Buy on Amazon
The World Atlas Of Wine 8th Edition Book by Hugh Johnson & Jancis Robinson This is THE wine atlas, a huge coffee table book with maps of all the world's wine regions, written by the top wine industry experts. Buy On Amazon
Adventure Country Tracks (ACT)
This organisation offers various 5-day adventure bike routes in various across Europe. The ACT Portugal route starts in Bragança, which I rode part of on this trip. View ACT Portugal Track
Trans Euro trail (TET) A 100,000 km network of dirt tracks covering most of Europe and beyond, primarily for smaller trail bikes. It’s an excellent resource for adding trails to your journey. The route I’m following in this article can largely be done using TET tracks also. View Spanish Route View Portuguese Route
Austin Vince's The VINCE event
One of the main reasons for this trip was to participate in The VINCE, a bucket list item for a number of years. This 3-day, team-based map-reading “treasure hunt” on trail bikes takes place in the Pyrenees. The inaugural Apprentice edition in 2024 was designed for beginners and took place south of Burgos, with one checkpoint at the Sad Hill Cemetery, the site of the iconic Mexican standoff in The Good, The Bad and The Ugly. Each year, the event moves within the Pyrenees, but the Apprentice version will stay in the same location for now. View Event
TomTom MyDrive
A free and useful tool for creating routes using GPX files. It also highlights scenic roads (marked in green), making it a great resource for trip planning. Visit Website
Ride Magazine Website A treasure trove of carefully designed routes in Spain and Portugal, complete with map files. Visit Website
Wine Folly Website A very approachable and visual wine website with excellent maps of wine regions. Visit Website
Spanish Wine Lover Website A fantastic resource for information on Spanish wine producers and regions. Many of the producer profiles in this article link back to this website. Visit Website
Wine Tourism
I work in the UK wine trade, and for the past 15+ years, most of my holidays have involved some form of wine tourism. Naturally, I love incorporating visits to wine regions into my bike trips whenever possible. For me, simply riding through a wine region is enough to evoke a sense of place. When I return home and spot a bottle from that region, I can picture exactly where it came from.
Before I left on this trip, I had only booked one winery tour—a port producer in the Douro Valley—and secured accommodation nearby for the night before. Since my travel style is flexible and often spontaneous, I find it difficult to plan winery visits in advance. Most of the time, I take a more opportunistic approach.
Visiting wineries can vary drastically from region to region. Smaller wineries, especially those in lesser-known areas, often don't have staff waiting around all day for visitors, so most people will likely be out working in the vineyards or the winery. On the other hand, well-known wineries in popular regions tend to be much better set up for tourism, but this can also mean tours might be sold out weeks or even months in advance. That said, you can still drop by these wineries, visit their wine shop (where tasting is often possible), and walk around the vineyards. If you want to be certain of a visit, it's best to book in advance and factor in enough time for travel.
Another thing to keep in mind is the day of the week and time of day it is when you pass through a region. I had a few cases of unfortunate timing, such as arriving in famous wine regions on a Sunday. The Spanish do like their afternoon naps so that's another thing to factor in.
My approach to wine tourism is to hedge my bets. I'll try and book a couple of must see wineries in advance. Then I happily ride up to other wineries I'm interested in and if they're closed or no one is about then so be it. Some wineries have signs by the road indicating they’re open to visitors, which is less intimidating than rocking up at a place with no obvious reception or tasting area, where you might feel like you shouldn't be there. I also try to book stays at wineries themselves, so I can enjoy their wines over dinner. If I can’t visit a producer directly, I seek out restaurants and wine bars that offer a good selection of local wines. That way, I can still try wines from producers I couldn’t visit during the day. If I'm passing through a wine region and won’t be staying there overnight, I make sure to buy a bottle of wine from the area. (I have two special pouches in my soft luggage dedicated just to wine—I'm sure they're meant for fuel or water, but wine always takes priority!)
Over the course of my trip, I passed through many of Spain and Portugal’s most famous wine regions. This article focuses on some of the lesser-known yet still highly regarded regions. As you’ll see in the wine maps of Spain and Portugal below, there are countless wine regions to explore. In this guide, I cover six wine regions (four in Spain and two in Portugal), highlighting notable producers along the route. I’m not suggesting you try to visit a winery in every region, but it’s good to know what’s out there as you ride through. When you stop at wine bars and restaurants in the evening, you’ll be able to spot local names and perhaps even enjoy a glass or two.
One final thought: having visited these regions, it’s clear that the famous wine areas are famous for a reason. When you see places like the Douro Valley or Rioja, you’ll have that “aha” moment. If you’re wondering where to take a rest day, look no further than these stunning locations.
Spanish Wine Regions
The route passes through 4 neighbouring wine regions in Spain on a stretch from Ponferrada to Ribadavia - Bierzo in Castile and León and Valdeorras, Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro in Galicia. Bierzo is the most internationally well known of these regions followed by Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro. The main red grape to know in these regions is Mencia (AKA Jaen in Portugal) which produces particularly good wines from Bierzo and Ribeira Sacra. Ribeiro and Valdeorras are best known for their white wines from Treixadura and Godello respectively.
Image Credit: Wine Folly - Read their Spanish Wine Guide
Bierzo
Bierzo is the most well known internationally of the four Spanish regions and the only one on the route in the Castile and León region. It is most famous for its perfumed elegant red wines made from Mencia although some good white wines are also made there from Godello.
Useful Resources
Wineries To Visit
The big two to visit here are Descendientes de J. Palacios and Raúl Pérez, both having world renowned winemakers and producing some of the best wines in the region.
Descendientes de J. Palacios Founded by Alvaro Palacios, one of the world's top winemakers and his nephew Ricardo Perez, this winery is renowned for producing outstanding Mencía-based and are accredited to putting Bierzo on the map as a quality producing region. They make some serious small production wines, some demanding upwards of £800 per bottle (just a warning in case you blow your holiday budget on a single bottle). The winery was designed by a famous Spanish architect Moneo. They don't seem to have a website but they're listed as opening from 8am-2pm Monday to Friday, email: info@djpalacios.es View On Map | Producer Profile | Retailer Profile
Raúl Pérez Another one of the world's top winemakers with a more unorthodox approach to winemaking. He left his family winery Castro Ventosa (located nearby) to start his own in 2003 before returning to run it in 2010. He is involved in a number of winemaking projects including producing wines in Ribeira Sacra. Their website is nothing but a holding page with no info about visits, so I rode up to their bunker like winery and couldn't find any signs of a shop or tasting room so I left. If you want to visit then I suggest contacting them first. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile | Retailer Profile
Bodegas y Viñedos Castro Ventosa The Pérez family have been making wines in the area since 1752. The first wine I ever drank from this region was one of theirs. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Other producers to look out for:
Dominio de Tares - View Website
Losada - View Website
Palacio de Canedo - View Website
Bodega Luzdivina Amigo - View Website
Valdeorras
A small wine region in Galicia just over the border from Bierzo. It is best known for its high quality whites made from the Godello grape. It also produces some red from Mencia, sparkling and sweet wines. If you're taking the 3-day route then visiting Valdeorras is a good option. The wineries are well signposted and it looks like some effort has been made to promote tourism but I'd recommend trying to book a visit in advance. The region itself is rugged and beautiful but the towns perhaps aren't the prettiest and have a little bit of an industrial agricultural feel.
Useful Resources
Wineries To Visit
The top producers are located near the town O Bolo in the south of the region. These 3 wineries are close to the village of A Rúa which we'll be passing through.
Rafael Palacios, A Rúa Rafael is the younger brother of the world renowned winemaker Alvaro Palacios (of Descendientes de J. Palacios in Bierzo amongst other things). Rafael produces excellent white wines from Godello, made from 32 tiny parcels scattered around the O Bolo sub region with some vines being up to 100 years old. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Valdesil They mainly produce white from some of the oldest Godello vineyards in the region and also make some red wines from Mencia, and another red wine called Valteiro from the rare Maria Ardoña grape. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
A Coroa, A Rúa One of Galicia's oldest wineries who produce whites from Godello and a special red from Garnacha Tintorera (AKA Alicante Bouschet) View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Other producers to look out for:
O Luar do Sil - The white wine produced in Valdeorras by Pago de los Capellanes, a favourite producer of mine from the Ribera del Duero region. View Website
Telmo Rodriguez A producer with wineries all over Spain. View Website | Producer Profile
Viña Somoza They have a shop in Ourense View Website
Ribeira Sacra
Ribeira Sacra is known for its very steep terraced vineyards (often likened to the Douro or Mosel) along the meandering banks of the rivers Sil & Miño and was first cultivated by the Romans. The labour intensive work required in the conditions here is referred to as "Heroic Viticulture" and harvest is done by hand sometimes requiring boats just to reach the vineyards. It mostly produces red wine made from the Mencia grape (often from old vines) but it also makes some good white, usually from Godello or Albariño. It's split into 5 distinct subzones, with the Amandi sub zone on the north bank of the Sil being the most famous in the region and has some of better known producers.
Useful Resources
Wineries To Visit
Here is a list of some of the top producers in the region who are also along the route:
Bodegas Rectoral de Amandi, Amandi View On Map | View Website | More Info
Adega Algueira, Amandi View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Bodega Guímaro, Amandi View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile | Additional Producer Profile
Adegas Ponte da Boga, Ribeiras do Sil The oldest winery in the region. Located in the Ribeiras do Sil sub region near Castro Caldelas. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Peza do Rei de Adega Cachín, Ribeiras do Sil View On Map | View Website | More Info
Other producers to look out for:
Raúl Pérez Castro Candaz - The same Raúl Pérez from Bierzo. Producer Profile
Bodegas Petrón
Finca Millara
Dominio do Bibei
Ribeiro
The region is centred around Ribadavia (where you'll end day 3 on the extended route) and stretches to Ourense. Ribeiro means "Riverbank" in Galician so that's a good clue to its location. This is Galicia's oldest wine region and wine was first produced here by the Romans. Wine from the region used to be shipped to England in the Middle Ages before they turned their attention elsewhere. This is a predominantly white wine region producing wines from the grapes Treixadura (most commonly found, known as the Jewel of Ribeiro), Albariño, Loureira, Torrontés and some Godello. Some red, sparkling and sweet wines (Viño Tostado) are also made in the region.
Useful Resources
Wineries To Visit
Below is a list of some of the top producers in the region
Coto De Gomariz, Leiro Located just 15 minutes north of Ribadavia. I've a soft spot for this winery as I used to sell their wines back when I worked in a London wine shop, look out for their entry level white wine 'The Flower & The Bee' made with the Treixadura grape. View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Priorato de Razamonde View On Map | View Website
Finca Viñoa View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Pazo Casanova View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Vina Costeira Ribeiro's largest producer by far, selling 5 million bottles per year. Located just east of Ribadavia. View On Map | View Website | Winemaker Interview
Portuguese Wine Regions
Both routes cut through the Transmontano regions, while the extended route will also take you through Minho, known for its Vinho Verde wines.
Later in my trip, I visited Portugal's top regions of The Douro Valley and Dao which I'll cover in my next article.
Image Credit: Wine Folly - Read their Portuguese Wine Guide
Minho / Vinho Verde
Named after the river Minho and centred around the town of Braga, this is Portugal's wettest and most northwestern wine region. The region of Minho and Vinho Verde are basically identical except wines made under the name Vinho Verde must use native grape varieties.
The region mostly makes white Vinho Verde ("Green Wine" referring to its youth rather than colour) from a blend of grapes - Alvarinho (called Albariño across the border in Spain), Loureiro, Arinto, Azal and more. This is an easy going, youthful, light, citrussy wine with a slight spritz - the perfect wine after a hot day on the bike. A smaller amount of red and rose Vinho Verde is also produced.
The region is split into nine sub-regions, the best of which is the northernmost between one Monção and Melgaço on the Spanish border which is sheltered by the hills and so is warmer and drier than elsewhere. In Monção and Melgaço more serious whites are made solely from Alvarinho. Day 4 of the extended route will bring you through the town of Melgaço giving you the option of visiting a winery near there.
Useful Resources
Wineries To Visit
The winery below is a good option for a visit when you ride through the town of Melgaço just after crossing into Portugal:
Quinta de Soalheiro, Melgaço
View On Map | View Website | Producer Profile
Transmontano / Tras-os-Montes
This is Portugal's most remote region in the northeast of the country and is known for its harsh climate of cold winters and hot summers. It's not particular noted for producing high quality wine and is best known for full bodied high alcohol reds.
Accommodation
In this guide, I’ll share details of where I stayed, along with alternative accommodation options. For a more in-depth look at the best places I stayed on my trip, check out the Spain & Portugal Accommodation Guide, where all the locations are also marked on the Explorer Map for Spain and Portugal.
I booked only one night of accommodation in advance—the night I stayed in the Douro Valley, where I specifically wanted to stay in a certain hotel. For my first night, I made the booking the night before I arrived by ferry. I wanted to see what the weather would be like, as it could affect my route, and I also preferred not to deal with the stress of finding a place to stay on arrival.
For the rest of the trip, I typically booked accommodation each afternoon using Booking.com, which often gave me the opportunity to secure a last-minute deal on some great places. This flexible approach worked well, especially since it allowed me to adapt to changing weather, extend my stay if needed, or resolve any unforeseen issues.
I focused on finding interesting places to stay with an on-site restaurant or bar, or one within walking distance. My budget was usually under £100 per night, and the majority of the places I found turned out to be excellent and were some of the highlights of the trip. I also tried to avoid staying in cities and preferred accommodation that felt safe for leaving my bike overnight.
Itinerary
Alright, let's dive into the route in more detail. While Santander to Bragança is just a 4.5-hour ride if you take the motorway directly, there's so much amazing riding to be had in Northern Spain and Portugal that rushing through would be a missed opportunity.
Each day offers 4 to 6 hours of ride time and plenty to see along the way. If you have the time, you could easily stretch the extended 4-day route into a week to explore more. I’ve also included some alternative route options so you can adjust the trip to your preferences.
Note: The embedded Google Maps don't reliably display the correct route so only use them as a general route overview and use the links under the map to actually navigate with.
Day 1 - Santander to Riaño
The first day was all about getting settled into the trip: riding through the mountains of Picos de Europa National Park and, weather permitting, tackling a trail or two. The park is a stunning mountain range and a popular destination for bikers, offering enough beautiful riding to easily fill an entire holiday. I’ve suggested two routes based on weather conditions, as there can still be snow in spring, and the northern side of the range tends to get more rain.
My Route
This is the route I took, as rain was expected around lunchtime. It allowed for an early scenic trail with options later in the day to shorten the ride if necessary.
The map shows my route, but I deviated for a ~30km TET trail just west of the village of Puentenansa (I’ve added the trailhead to the Google map). This trail took me up to Refugio del Collado, and then I popped out in the village of San Pedro de Bedoya, just east of Tama. Given the weather, I also opted for the shortest route in the afternoon, going directly from Potes to Riaño, skipping Fuente Dé (where you can take a cable car up to 900m for panoramic views) and Posada de Valdeón.
The beauty of arriving in Santander is that you’re immediately immersed in stunning scenery. Disembarking the ferry around 8:30 am, I hopped onto the rather pleasant motorway for 30 minutes, reaching Cabezón de la Sal. From there, I headed straight into the mountains on winding roads toward Puentenansa.
With rain and clouds forecast for midday, I had planned to skip riding any trails. But, on a whim, I decided to turn off onto a TET trail just after Puentenansa, which was recommended by my friend Noel—provided the visibility was good. Although the trail began as a simple gravel track, I was very tense as my nerves kicked in. I hadn’t ridden a trail in over a year after a few bad experiences, and the fully-loaded bike didn’t help. My anxiety only increased when I immediately encountered around 50 local hunters with dogs at the first bend.
Once past them, I had the trail to myself, winding further into the mountains, only passing the occasionally cow herder. As I progressed I began to relax and I started to get back into the swing of things. The scenery was stunning, with large birds of prey soaring above, clearly interested in a trail rider who could fall off at any moment. Before long, the sky darkened, and I found myself riding through the clouds with limited visibility. Eventually, I broke through to clearer skies and met a group of hikers before descending on a steep, greasy, hairpin-laden trail down to San Pedro de Bedoya.
Feeling quite pleased with myself for tackling the trail, I made my way to Potes for lunch. It’s a popular spot for bikers exploring the Picos, and the town was packed with them. It felt almost like a ski resort, but seemingly exclusively for motorcyclists. As it started to rain heavily, I ducked into a restaurant and sat under cover, chatting with some Welsh bikers who had just ridden nearby trails on road bikes. One of them was on a Harley, which made me feel a bit less smug about my "grand" trail-riding achievement.
When the rain stopped, I left Potes. If the weather had been better, I would have loved to ride the 15km trail from Espinama to Sotres, but it would have added considerable time to the day, and I’d likely have had to stay elsewhere in the Picos, such as Cangas de Onís. Instead, I opted for an easier first day, riding southwest on the beautiful N621 toward the Mirador del Corzo, with its iconic deer sculpture. Continuing on, the road cut through a gorge before opening up to the stunning Riaño Reservoir, which looked particularly dramatic against the broody sky.
Alternate Route
If the weather had been better, this would have been my preferred route, though you must take a trail to do it. Follow my route to Potes, then continue to Espinama to ride the stunning Ruta de la Reconquista. This famous mountain gravel track to Sotres offers spectacular views, and while it’s drivable by car (and suitable for ADV bikes), it may be impassable until June if there’s still snow.
After passing the charming village of Sotres (the highest village in the Picos), you can head up to the Mirador del Urriellu for grand views of the Naranjo de Bulnes, one of the highest peaks in the range. Just beyond that is the Mirador del Pozo de la Oración, which offers one of the most iconic views of Naranjo de Bulnes.
Next, ride to Cangas de Onís, the region’s capital, known for its Roman Bridge. It’s a great place to stop if you want to rest earlier. From Cangas de Onís, continue on the N625 south for about 1 hour and 20 minutes to Riaño, passing through the deep gorge of Desfiladero de los Beyos.
Naranjo de Bulnes, Picos de Europa - Photo Credit: Picos de Europa National Park
Accommodation Suggestions
Accommodation options become sparser the further south towards Riaño you go, and as I only booked the night before, pickings were slim. There's a nice looking hotel at Oseja de Sajambre which could work well for either route. If you take the longer alternative route then you might want to stay in Cangas de Onís which has plenty of accommodation options.
Hotel Moto-Rural "VEGALION", Riaño area A biker guesthouse with secure motorcycle parking. My friend stayed here and liked it but it was booked out when I was there.
Hostal Restaurante Ventasierra, Riaño area A humble guesthouse which backs onto a river where I stayed for only £38. The rooms reminded me of something you'd see in a western film. It has a bar, lovely staff and the restaurant was very good (even the half portions were enormous). It's also a good intro into Spanish eating habits with dinner only starting at 9pm and breakfast from 10am.
Camping Riaño, Riaño Campsite which also has a few bungalow options and a restaurant. View On Map | View Website
Hotel Mirador de la Cepada, Cangas de Onís View On Map | View On Booking.com
Parador de Cangas de Onís State run hotel in an ancient monastery just north of Cangas de Onís View On Map | View On Booking.com
Hotel La Cuna del Sella, Oseja de Sajambre View On Map | View On Booking.com
Day 2 - Riaño to Ponferrada (Bierzo)
The destination for today is Ponferrada, the gateway to the Bierzo wine region (see Bierzo section for winery recommendations). This historic town boasts a formidable 13th-century Templar castle that watches over its old town, and it’s a key stop for pilgrims on the Camino de Santiago.
The direct route from Riaño to Ponferrada takes about 3 hours without motorways. If you had an extra day to play with, you could venture northwest toward Oviedo, before looping south toward Ponferrada for a longer, more scenic ride.
For those looking to add some trail riding, head southwest from Riaño toward León, where you can join the Trans Euro Trail (TET) around La Robla, which leads towards Ponferrada. Alternatively, there’s a northern TET route that offers a more mountainous trails ride to Ponferrada.
My Route
Because of the poor weather and a late start, I took a route through León and Astorga which followed the pilgrimage route and focused more on visiting historical places with interesting architecture. This is not a thrilling ride for biking purists seeking twisty mountain roads, as much of it is on long, straight stretches. While the ride felt less exciting at the time, in hindsight it offered a nice balance to the more adventurous days that followed. Below I suggest an alternative route, which is a more balanced combination of a bit of history and better biking roads.
After leaving Riaño, I made my way toward La Robla for a fuel stop. The roads were perfectly fine but felt a bit uninspiring after the fantastic riding the day before. My initial plan was to head north towards the Barrios de Luna Reservoir, but with poor weather on the horizon, I decided to reroute south to León.
León is a sizable city, which I didn’t find it particularly inspiring. The cathedral is impressive, but with my soft luggage, I couldn’t really leave my bike unattended, so I didn’t spend much time exploring and decided to hit the road again.
The next leg of the ride took me along the long, flat N120 road towards Astorga. This road is part of the Camino de Santiago pilgrimage, and as I rode, I passed dozens of pilgrims on foot. I couldn’t help but wonder what the appeal was as they trudged alongside this seemingly endless straight road with not much to see.
Astorga, on the other hand, exceeded expectations. I parked my bike by Gaudí's whimsical palace and took a stroll around the cathedral nearby before jumping back on my bike.
The village of Molinaseca turned out to be the highlight of the day. This picturesque village, complete with a Roman bridge and two charming churches, was the perfect place for a relaxed break. I called in to Mesón el Palacio for tapas and a beer by the river, where several pilgrims had also stopped to rest. If you’re looking for a more peaceful alternative to Ponferrada for the night, this village is a great option.
After a short ride, I arrived in Ponferrada and checked into my hotel. I took a leisurely walk around the old town by the Templar castle and along the river. Ponferrada has plenty to amuse you for the evening and more importantly there are a great selection of bars and restaurants to relax in after a day on the bike.
Ponferrada
Suggested Route
If I were to do this trip again, this is the route I’d take. While it does mean skipping Astorga and Gaudí’s fairytale-like palace (which was stunning), it also avoids most of the dull roads and offers a better biking experience.
This route prioritizes twisty, scenic roads and takes you through the Bierzo wine region, including some of the wineries on my list, before reaching Ponferrada.
After fueling up in La Robla, head north again, climbing back into the hills towards Barrios de Luna Reservoir. Created in the 1950s under Franco’s regime, this reservoir submerged several towns, some of which become visible in the summer when the water levels recede.
The route then arcs west, approaching Ponferrada from the north. This part of the journey takes you through the heart of the Bierzo wine region, particularly around Cacabelos, where many of the area’s top wineries are located. If it's still early in the day, you might want to stop and visit one or two wineries before continuing on to Ponferrada.
Once in Ponferrada, I'd strongly consider a detour to the charming village of Molinaseca, just 15 minutes to the east. It’s a peaceful spot with a picturesque Roman bridge and two lovely churches. You can either stay here for the night or head back to Ponferrada for more accommodation options.
If you’re following the 3-day route to Bragança, or if time has gotten away from you, it might make more sense to explore the vineyard areas west of Ponferrada the next morning. In that case, as you ride south from Villablino, aim for Molinaseca first before making your way into Ponferrada. If time allows, you might also be able to squeeze in a visit to the Dominio de Tares winery.
Eating & Drinking
Ponferrada is an excellent place to base yourself, offering a great selection of bars and restaurants, which isn't surprising being the capital of a well regarded wine region. I found a great little bar Coherencia EcoBar, hidden away from the crowds for some snacks and white wine (Godello is the local white wine to drink)
For dinner, I highly recommend Co-Do, a laid-back yet exceptional restaurant offering comfort food with a twist. It’s the more casual counterpart to its Michelin-starred sister restaurant Mu-Na, also in Ponferrada. Co-Do has a very good wine list with many of the wines from the top local Bierzo producers such as Descendientes de J. Palacios and Raúl Pérez.
Accommodation Suggestions
I stayed in the Hotel Aroi Bierzo Plaza in Ponferrada so I could explore the town in the evening. The pretty village of Molinaseca 15 mins east of Ponferrada would also be a good option to stay in.
Hotel Aroi Bierzo Plaza, Ponferrada
The location of the hotel was excellent, my room looked out onto one of the main squares (Plaza Ayuntamiento) and the town hall, so you're right in the middle of all the action. The hotel does feel a bit tired though, the breakfast was underwhelming and it has that impersonal feel you get from staying in hotels. It has a restaurant but there are much better options in town. It is still a decent option if you want to stay in town and it's inexpensive (I paid £66 per night).
I paid extra to use their secure underground parking which in fact is just a few reserved spaces in the public underground carpark in the Plaza Ayuntamiento. There is a security attendant in there but anyone can access the parking space. Other bikers staying in the hotel had parked there too. The hotel was hard to navigate to as it's in a pedestrianised area so park by the entrance to the underground parking and walk across the square to check-in and find out from reception how to park. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Palacio de Canedo, Canedo A wine estate with hotel, restaurant, wine shop and vineyard tours View On Map | View On Booking.com | View Website
El Tiempo Recobrado, Villamartín de la Abadía Small hotel with restaurant in a quiet village near to the wineries west of Ponferrada. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Day 3 - Ponferrada to Bragança
Until now, the 3-day and 4-day routes have been identical, but today they split after A Rúa. Although the shorter route may bypass some wonderful spots, the road leading south from A Rúa offered a wealth of amazing winding roads.
I started the day by riding west to the vineyard areas of Bierzo and up to a viewpoint in the vineyards - Vista de Valtuille desde el Castro de la Ventosa - where I watched people working away in the vineyards. Bierzo is home to several renowned winemakers. I attempted to visit a few, but they were closed when I stopped by. The area is quite pretty with its rolling hills, yet it doesn't have the imposing "wow-factor" terrain that you'll encounter in other regions later in the day.
I carried on to the UNESCO heritage site of Las Médulas, a devastated landscape that was once the Roman Empire's most important gold mine. You can go for cave tours; otherwise, just ride up to the car park at Mirador de Orellán and walk up to the viewpoint. This was a highlight of the trip despite getting a call from my wife to say our newly purchased flat was just flooded by our neighbour who left her bath running!
Shortly after leaving Las Médulas I left the region of Castile and León and entered the Celtic region of Galicia by way of series of scenic bridges and tunnels. Shortly after I reached the Valdeorras wine region with some options to visit some wineries between the towns of O Barco and A Rúa. I'd advise booking ahead as while the wineries are well signposted around the towns, there wasn't much signs of life when I passed through. O Barco isn't the most attractive town, so if you're considering a stop, continue to A Rúa, which is nicer and features a kind of lake on the river.
In A Rúa, there were limited food options open, and it seemed like lunch might consist of Wine Gums and energy bars. However, I found a nice locals restaurant, Bar Galicia, where I had a tasty lunch of clam and octopus soup, followed by hake fillets. The whole meal, drinks included, was a total bargain at 12 euros.
After my huge lunch, it was time to head south. Taking the OU-533, I was instantly met with endless bends offering stunning views of gorges covered in yellow gorse and the terraced vineyards of Valdeorras. I stopped at the hilltop viewpoint of Miradoiro de San Cibrao to look down on the reservoir by Viana do Bolo, before enjoying more great windy roads and then I was suddenly crossing the border into Portugal for the first time. The change in architecture was immediately noticeable and no more so than in the pretty mountain town of Vinhais.
Instead of staying in Bragança, I chose to lodge in a wooden cabin at the Cepo Verde campsite, located on the outskirts of Montesinho Natural Park. The campsite is managed by the charming Telmo, a fellow biker and avid trail rider. The restaurant offers a variety of local dishes, and I decided to try the wild boar stew. After an early night gazing at the stars through the large cabin window, I was fully prepared to embark on the Adventure Country Tracks route the next day.
Accommodation Suggestions
Micro Cabana Rotativa / Cepo Verde, Bragança I had a lovely stay in a rotatable wooden cabin within a small forest at the Cepo Verde campground, situated on the outskirts of a national park, 15 minutes west of Bragança. There's a restaurant and you can buy bottles of wine at reception. Read more about this in my accommodation article.
Solar de Santa Maria, Bragança Charming old building (once a convent) near the historic town. Parking is limited to street parking on a steep, cobbled road. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Inn Door 21 - Hostel & Suite, Bragança Pretty hostel with private rooms in a good central location. Only street parking available on a steep cobbled street. View On Website | View On Booking.com
Extended 4 Day Route
If you can afford another day or two to get to Bragança then this is the route I'd recommend.
Day 3 (Extended Route) - Ponferrada to Ribadavia
On day 3, rather than traveling south after A Rúa, you proceed westward. You can expect to see many more vineyards as you pass through two additional wine regions: Ribeira Sacra and Ribeiro.
View Route in Google Maps - Note: Displayed map isn't quite correct, use link for navigation
After A Rúa, your next destination is the hilltop town of Castro Caldelas, featuring a 14th-century fort and cobbled streets.
You'll then find yourself in the Ribeira Sacra wine region, known for its renowned terraced vineyards, which I really regret not getting to see. The route will take you north across the river Sil, passing the wineries I've suggested to visit, to the Amandi wine sub region with a view point over the river near the village of Doade. This viewpoint (Miradoiro de Souto Chao) has a large granite sculpture of a woman collecting grapes (Escultura al Carreteiro) which is nestled amongst the terraced vines. This is a good time to visit a winery or to checkout one of the other viewpoints around here.
If the day is getting on and you need to get to Ourense or Ribadavia for the night then you can continue north to the ironically named Sober and take the N120 from there to save some time. Otherwise head back south over the bridge and we'll take the small roads along the hills over the south bank of the Sil.
Terraced Vineyards in Ribeira Sacra. Photo Credit: https://ribeirasacra.org/
The following stop on the journey is Castiñeiro milenario de Entrambosríos, where you can admire a 700-year-old Chestnut tree in the forest. From here, you can detour to explore the 10th-century Monastery of Santa Cristina de Ribas de Sil or stop at the many other viewpoints along this path.
After that, the route leads to the historic Monastery of Santo Estevo de Ribas de Sil, part of which has been converted into a Parador hotel & spa, offering a wonderful place to spend the night.
From this point, you descend to the Miño River and soon reach the attractive Roman city of Ourense. Consider visiting one of Ourense's many thermal spas, several of which are free (read about them in this Guardian article). After leaving Ourense, you enter the Ribeiro wine region. You have the option to travel north of the river on the quicker N120, passing some of the wineries I've mentioned, or south of the river along a more picturesque riverside route. In about 45 minutes, you'll arrive in Ribadavia, a lovely town and the capital of the Ribeiro wine region, known for its historic Jewish quarter.
Accommodation Options
Admittedly today's route has rather a lot to see in one day so staying somewhere like the Santo Estevo Parador would put you under less time pressure assuming you have the time to spare. There's some particularly interesting places to stay along the route. Here are some options starting in heart of the Ribeira Sacra wine area and going to the Ribadavia area.
Reitoral de Parada Attractive rural house that was formerly a rectory in a small village in Ribeira Sacra. It has a restaurant on site with a few more options in the village. Located an hour east of Ourense, on the southern bank of the Sil View On Map | View On Booking.com
Santo Estevo Parador Stunning hotel with restaurant and spa in a 10th century Benedictine monastery next to the Miño and Sil rivers. A pricier option but will no doubt be a memorable stay. Approx 1hr 30mins from Ribadavia and 45mins from Ourense. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Gandarela Turismo Rural Riverside hotel with restaurant located between Ribadavia and Ourense View On Map | View On Booking.com
Pazo de Esposende Pretty country house surrounded by vineyards in the Ribeiro wine region. Has a bar but no restaurant, Ribadavia is a 10 min ride south. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Day 4 (Extended Route) - Ribadavia to Bragança
Today it is finally time to head south to Portugal!
This is going to be a long day, probably too long if you stayed short of Ribadavia the night before. I've suggested some alternative routes in case.
Departing from Ribadavia, you'll travel south along the Minho River, crossing into Portugal at the border town of Melgaço, considered one of the best areas of the Vinho Verde wine region. If you're not all winery'd out at this point, you can explore the nearby Quinta de Soalheiro winery. Your ride continues southward into the expansive 70,000-hectare Peneda-Gerês National Park, Portugal's sole official national park and home to the Iberian Wolf. As you traverse the national park, you'll pass Peneda and the Santuario de Nossa Senhora, a chapel featuring a grand Baroque staircase. After Peneda, you'll re-enter Spain briefly before crossing back into Portugal via the Portela do Homem mountain pass.
Santuário de Nossa Senhora da Peneda - Photo Credit: https://natural.pt/
After leaving the national park you'll cross the Cávado River and then take the N103, a great biking road running east all the way to Bragança. On the way you'll pass through Chaves, a pretty Roman spa town near the Spanish border.
Arriving in Bragança you have now reached the final destination and the start of the Adventure Country Tracks Portugal route. Bragança is the capital of the rugged Trás-os-Montes region in the northeast of Portugal and is the gateway to the Park Natural de Montesinho which boasts the Iberian Lynx and Wolf. Bragança dates back to Roman times and its citadel was built in the 12th century. Time to rest up for the next part of the trip!
Our destination - Bragança's Walled Fort - Photo Credit: https://www.travel-in-portugal.com/braganca
Alternative Options
There's plenty of alternative options for today to either make the day shorter, ride some trails or to extend the route by a day.
If you want to just get down to Bragança in good time then you can cut across to Chaves from Ribadavia to save about 2.5hrs.
If you fancy riding some trails then the TET goes through Ribadavia so at this point you could follow the TET down to the Roman Caldaria of Bande (Roman Hot Springs & Ruins). From here you can continue on the TET all the way down to Chã in Portugal before picking up the N103 road through to Chaves, Vinhais and Bragança.
If you wanted to extend your trip by a day then you could add on a visit to the old Roman city of Braga and the Bom Jesus do Monte Santuary with its famous staircase before joining the excellent N103 road all the way to Bragança. View Suggested Route
Accommodation Suggestions
As day 4 is long, I've included suggestions for Chaves (1hr 45mins west of Bragança) in addition to the Bragança options I mentioned earlier.
Castelo Hotel, Chaves Modern hotel in a central location in Chaves with secure motorcycle parking View On Map | View On Booking.com
Ibis Styles Chaves, Chaves Stylish hotel with a bit of a Wes Anderson vibe in what used to be the Grandes Hotel de Chaves. Located centrally in Chaves. No secure parking but they allow motorcycles to be parked outside the front door. View On Map | View On Booking.com
Trip Part 2 Preview
In my next article, I will discuss my travels in Portugal, focusing on its two top wine regions: the Douro Valley and the Dão. Starting in Bragança, I traveled south, following the first two days of the Adventure Country Tracks Portugal route. Along the way, I traversed trails over secluded Roman bridges and through the Douro vineyards, eventually reaching the mountains of the Serra da Estrela. On my return north, I journeyed through the Dão wine region and back to the Douro, where I spent two nights in Pinhão to explore the heart of the Douro wine area.
